Dinner in Kamloops: Turn off the highway to discover B.C.’s newest food and wine region

You probably think of Kamloops as a refuelling stop, a place to pause for a tank of gas and a Tim’s before hitting the Coquihalla Highway. But it’s so much more than that.

Seemingly overnight, Kamloops has become B.C.’s newest foodie destination, where a small but mighty contingent of chefs, farmers, winemakers and craft brewers are discovering the potential of this city in the Thompson River Valley.

Perhaps it was inevitable. Kamloops is quietly booming. The population has slowly but steadily been growing (it’s now around 100,000), and the city has attracted a number of diverse new businesses. And yet, it’s still affordable enough for young families to buy a house and make a life there.

As Monica Dickinson, the acting CEO of Tourism Kamloops, says, “Opportunities are abounding.” Even so, a culinary revolution has to start somewhere, and in down-to-earth Kamloops, it’s perhaps not surprising that it would start in a pub.

The Noble Pig Brewhouse opened in 2010 with the idea of serving handcrafted beer and made-from-scratch pub fare, what chef-owner Jared Summers describes as “simple, beautiful, well-made beer and simple, beautiful, well-made food.”

He and his wife Meaghan, who runs the front of house, came on board a year after the pub opened. They took the original concept and expanded it to focus on local ingredients. Now, he says proudly, “We don’t have enough room on the menu to list everything that is local or house made.”

That could mean smoky Rainer bacon on a luscious burger, Bolognese sauce made from local buffalo, pepperoni sticks from Gary’s European Sausage & Deli and tomatoes, lettuce and peaches from any one of a number of nearby farms.

In 2011, the Pig was joined by Terra Restaurant down the street, where chef David Tombs and his wife Andrea are also dishing up the best of Thompson bounty: butter potatoes from Thistle Farms, fish from Ted’s Trout, herbs from Laughing Swan Farm, locally ranched beef. Each dish arrives, a perfect little work of art, often paired with a fragrant wine from just up the road.

Both restaurants are located on Victoria Street, the main drag in the city’s historic downtown. Just a couple of blocks from the sweeping Thompson River with its parks and pathways, Victoria Street is dotted with shops, cafés, restaurants and bakeries, as well as the art gallery, a twice-weekly farmers market and, right in the middle of all the action, the Plaza Hotel.

The Plaza was built in 1928 and, like so many small town hotels, went through a few dodgy decades, especially after the highway diverted business to malls on the outskirts of town. No more: The hotel has recently had a multi-million dollar facelift that’s restored all its comfort and charm.

More importantly for the hungry, the Plaza is also home to the Fireside Lounge, a steakhouse where executive chef Michael Swann serves up tender, flavourful Black Angus beef from Southlands Ranch in Knutsford, alongside salads, pastas and hearty appetizers. Again, as much as possible is locally grown and sourced.

Now, it may come as a surprise that there is so much produce grown here amid the barren coulees and windswept grasslands. If anything, we know this as ranch country. But Summers points out the valley was originally orchard land and there are still dozens of farms growing fruit and vegetables here, places like Horstings Farm Market out near Cache Creek.

The challenge for the chefs has been that the farmers aren’t used to supplying independent restaurants — after all, until recently, there weren’t any to supply.

“What we’re really benefiting from is being able to build the relationships from scratch,” Summers says. “We’ve been able to grow together and build this program and make it sustainable.”

And it’s not just tomatoes and apples that are being grown here: This is quickly becoming a small but exciting wine region, too.

So far, there are only four wineries, though surely more will join them. The first, Harper’s Trail, opened in 2013, but has already made a name for its cool climate whites, especially Riesling, which loves the limestone-rich soil. Tiny Sagewood is changing perceptions about the oft-maligned Marechal Foch, while Privato is scooping up awards for its elegant Pinot Noirs.

The newest winery just opened its tasting room a few weeks ago. Monte Creek Ranch is an ambitious project that comprises a grass-fed cattle ranch, honeybee hives, haskap berry orchards and 40 acres of grapes, 20 on either side of the South Thompson River.

Winemaker Galen Barnhardt is experimenting to see what will grow best here — Riesling, of course, but also Pinot Noir and little-known grapes like Marquette and Frontenac Noir.

He believes the region has huge potential. The soil, which ranges from sand and gravel on the North Thompson where Privato winery is located, to limestone and alluvial silt at Harper’s Trail, Sagewood and Monte Creek, is ideal for grapes. “Essentially the whole area was a giant glacial lake,” Barnhardt says.

Aside from the cold winters, the climate is also ideal. The sunlight is more intense, daytime temperatures are higher and nights cooler than in the Okanagan Valley next door. Those are perfect conditions for producing intensely flavourful grapes.

Still, this isn’t the Okanagan, and it likely never will be. As Summers says, “It’s not as sexy as the Okanagan. It’s a more working-class community.”

But it is a real community, and all those farmers, ranchers, chefs, winemakers, brewers and diners are working together to make sure that it is a sustainably delicious one.

 

If you go

Getting there:

Kamloops is a quick 50-minute flight from Vancouver or a 3-½-hour drive via the Coquihalla Highway or five hours if you take the scenic route through the Fraser Canyon.

Staying there:

Many of the major value hotel chains have properties in Kamloops, but one charming choice is the newly renovated Plaza Hotel in a central location right downtown (495 Victoria St., 250-377-8075, theplazahotel.ca).

Dining there:

Most of the best eateries in Kamloops are clustered along Victoria Street in the city’s historic downtown. Try The Noble Pig Brewhouse for elevated pub fare (thenoblepig.ca), Terra Restaurant for fresh, modern seasonal dishes with creative flair, Fireside Lounge in the Plaza Hotel for great steaks and mouth-watering appetizers (theplazahotel.ca) and Hello Toast for hearty breakfasts in a cheerfully offbeat setting (hellotoastkamloops.ca).

Sipping there:

Three of Kamloops’ four wineries are located along the South Thompson River: Harper’s Trail Winery (harperstrail.com), tiny Sagewood (sagewoodwinery.ca) and the brand-new Monte Creek Ranch (montecreekranchwinery.com). The fourth, Privato Vineyard & Winery (privato.ca), is about a 40-minute drive away on the North Thompson River. For more info, locations and opening hours, visit kamloopswinetrail.com.

Beer lovers will want to head to The Noble Pig Brewhouse (thenoblepig.ca) or Red Collar Brewing Co. (redcollar.ca) for exceptional handcrafted ales.

Getting around:

One excellent hassle-free way to explore the Kamloops wineries is with TasteFull Excursions , which offers wine-tasting tours of the Thompson Shuswap region and as far as Fort Berens Estate Winery in Lillooet.

 

For more information:

To learn more about things to see and do, as well as places to stay and eat, in Kamloops, visittourismkamloops.com.

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Recipes

Panzanella Salad

The Noble Pig Brewhouse chef/owner Jared Summers says, “This traditional salad can be made with whatever fresh garden vegetables you have on hand such as cucumbers or green beans. Traditionally you would use stale bread and refresh it with vinegar, but we use fresh bread, which is nicer, I think.”

Balsamic Onions:

1 large red onion, peeled and sliced into thick rings

Olive oil as needed

Kosher salt to taste

1 cup (250 mL) balsamic vinegar

Salad:

6 cups (1.5 L) crusty country bread

1 lb (500 g) heirloom tomatoes

1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped fresh basil,

2 large handfuls fresh arugula (approximately 1 lb or 500 g)

Balsamic Onions

Good extra virgin olive oil, as needed

Kosher salt

10 oz (300 g) fiore di latte mozzarella or bocconcini

Make the Balsamic Onions: Pre-heat a grill to high heat. Brush the onion rings lightly with oil and sprinkle them with salt. Place on the grill and cook, turning once, just until you get grill marks on both sides. (This should only take a minute or two and could be done ahead of time.)

Preheat oven to 350 deg F (180 deg C). Transfer onions to a roasting pan or oven-safe frying pan. Pour in balsamic vinegar place in the oven. Bake, uncovered, for approximately 30 minutes or until soft. Allow to cool in vinegar.

Note: These onions can be prepared ahead of time — covered and stored in balsamic vinegar, they’ll keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Assemble the salad: Preheat oven to 350 deg F (180 deg C). Tear the bread into bite-sized chunks and drizzle with olive oil. Spread on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until the bread is done to your liking. Make sure to stir it around after a few minutes so it’s toasted on all sides, and keep a close eye on it so it doesn’t burn.

Slice or chop tomatoes into whatever shape you like and sprinkle with salt.

In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, basil, arugula, balsamic onions and warm bread. Drizzle with olive oil and some of the vinegar from the braised onions and toss gently until well combined.

Divide between four salad plates or serve in a big bowl family style. Tear the mozzarella into bite-sizes pieces and arrange over the salad. Sprinkle with a touch more kosher salt and a drizzle of olive oil.

Serves 4.

Smoked Trout and Potato Salad Recipe

This light yet satisfying lunch recipe comes from chef David Tombs of Terra Restaurant in Kamloops. He uses ingredients from local farms and pairs the dish with Harper’s Trail Chardonnay from Kamloops. “The crisp, fresh flavours along with the caramel and peach aromas make the wine a natural for seafood,” he says.

1 1/2 lb (680 g) golf-ball-sized new nugget potatoes

2 tsp (10 mL) Dijon mustard

½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise

1 tsp (5 mL) apple cider vinegar

1 tsp (5 mL) chopped dill

Salt and pepper to taste

14 oz (400 g) Ted’s or other smoked trout

1/2 head leaf lettuce, torn

3 to 4 radishes, sliced

12 cherry tomatoes

4 sprigs fresh dill

Optional: Two hard-cooked eggs

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil, add potatoes and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain potatoes, set aside, and cool to room temperature.

In a large bowl, mix mustard, mayonnaise, apple cider, chopped dill, salt and pepper to make the dressing.

Cut cooled potatoes in halves or quarters depending on size and add to bowl. Mix well with a spatula, scraping around the edges of the bowl until the potatoes are well coated. Place in refrigerator and chill for 2 to 4 hours.

When you’re ready to serve the salad: Remove potatoes from fridge and check seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if required.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350 deg F (180 deg C). Place smoked trout in oven for 7 minutes or until warmed through. Cut or tear trout into bite-sized pieces.

Build salad on four lunch-sized plates: Arrange lettuce on the bottom of each plate, top with some potato mixture, then add sliced radish, cherry tomatoes and, if you like, half a boiled egg. Top with warm smoked trout and garnish with a dill sprig.

Serves 4.

Roasted Pear and Apple Roquefort Salad

This recipe from executive chef Michael Swann at the Fireside Lounge at the Plaza Hotel makes a terrific starter to a hearty steak dinner or a light but flavourful lunch. Pears and apples are in season right now; if you prefer, you can go with one or the other or both fruits.

Salad:

2 pears

2 apples

Olive oil as needed

Salt and cracked pepper to taste

8 oz (225 g) arugula

2 oz (60 g) prosciutto, sliced

1 cup (250 mL) Roquefort Dressing (see below)

2 oz (60 g) crushed pistachios

2 oz (60 g) Roquefort or other blue cheese, crumbled

Roquefort Dressing:

1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise

¾ cup (180 mL) buttermilk

4 oz (120 g) Roquefort or other blue cheese

1 tbsp (15 mL) Worcestershire sauce

1/2 tsp (2 mL) garlic powder or 1 clove fresh garlic

Cracked pepper to taste.

Roast the fruit: Preheat oven to 350 deg F (180 deg C). Core the pears and apples and slice into 1/2-inch (1 cm) rings. Toss with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet (preferably lined with Silpat) and roast in the oven until tender, about 5 to 6 minutes. Cool to room temperature before using.

Make the Roquefort Dressing: Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use. Note that you will have some dressing left over — it would make a good topping for a wedge salad or a savoury dip for crudités.

Assemble the salad: Divide the arugula between four luncheon-sized plates. Stack the rings of roasted fruit in the middle of each plate, alternating apple and pear rings. You should have half a pear and half an apple per plate. Arrange the prosciutto around the fruit. Drizzle dressing over the salad (about ¼ cup / 60 mL per plate). Sprinkle pistachios and crumble blue cheese over the salads.

Serves 4.

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